Please keep in mind
that I do still make and sell the line of CBR and
Sorry but I retired from the Airgun Tuning business
all together about two years ago. I no longer have
any parts or machine tools for tuning. I had retired
3 times in the past and it didn’t last long so this
time I sold the tools to make sure that I stayed
An excellent person
to deal with both in purchases and tuning of Chinese
guns is Mike Melick. Mike is one of the best.
Check Mike out here at.....
Dragon Air Rifles
Why A Tune
Why a Springer airgun tune?
It is important to understand that tuning a gun does
not necessarily increase the fps (and usually
doesn't) unless there are issues such as a broken or
fatigued spring, a damaged seal, or a rough chamber
wall or a combination of those conditions and
others. The logic in a tune is to extract the
efficiency of the gun, to make it a smoother, more
accurate, with more consistency and efficient with
less spring vibration and twang and reduced recoil
with an improved smoother and lighter trigger pull
making it a more pleasurable shooting gun.
What a tune does and why it's important, whether I
do it or someone else does it.
First: I have yet to see any lower end guns,
especially in the Chinese rifle’s using synthetic
seals not having at least some damage, often times
minor, and some with sever damage, which the buyer
will never know even while shooting it unless it is
extremely bad or he breaks a spring or he has a
Chrony and can see the power loss. Secondly: again,
especially in the Chinese clones, the vibration or
spring twang and torque caused by poor or incorrect
lubrication, and poor quality control, rough
components, and poor spring design and construction
causes’ inconsistency, loss of power and inaccuracy.
Thirdly: either little or no lubrication, or
incorrect lubrication of other critical internal
parts. Fourth: smoother, softer, and depending on
the gun, shorter more predictable trigger pull, and
finally, resolves most rough cocking conditions.
Spring twang or vibration and cocking roughness.
First there is the roughly finished metal on the
interior parts caused by poor machining and
stamping. Two dynamic things that happen when you
pull the Springer trigger. First there is double
recoil. When the seer releases the spring, the gun
starts to recoil to the rear. Then when the piston
hits the bottom of the cylinder, it drives the gun
forward. The second thing is that as the gun is
cocked, the spring expands and at the same time
twists slowly until the piston is latched by the
sear. It may also cant or bend the spring during
this process. When fired, the reverse happens, but
in a fraction of a second. The twisting during
decompression causes the rifle to twist in the
opposite direction of the twist of the spring. For
every action, there is an opposite reaction of
course. A tune helps reduce much of this violent
Tuning, if done correctly and depending on what kind
of tune, reduces spring vibration or twang,
increases power, and makes for a smoother cocking
operation. In addition, there will also be a softer
more predictable trigger pull if a trigger tune is
done or the GRT-III trigger is installed (a far
superior trigger with a lot lighter trigger pull).
Another important result is far less recoil, less
twist (torque), more consistent, and will be more
accurate shot after shot requiring very little
service (lubing and maintenance) for the life of the
Keep in mind though, springs do break on occasion
and seals do go bad and are considered a where and
tear item. I use nothing but the best seals and
springs available for the particular gun. The best
$30 for basic parts you'll ever spend on a Springer.
If special kits are used, such as a TurboTune kit,
or the GRT-III is installed, the cost will be a
About the proper internal lubrication.
Proper lubing is of the utmost importance. How it is
lubed, at what points it is lubed and what lube is
used on those points make a tremendous difference
how your gun behaves, its accuracy, it’s
consistency, seal and spring life, and it’s
longevity. It’s important to know that there are
several lubes used in airguns for different purposes
in different locations and they all play different
So many things are resolved by a good tune and these
principles apply to all airguns. You just can't beat
the money spent for a tune, especially if it's tuned
But please keep in mind, no two guns are the same
coming off the line, or tuned by the same tuner,
have the same power and consistency. Secondly, power
should not be the primary concern, although
important. If it's tuned and comes out extra strong,
that’s fine as long as it fires smooth and is
consistent. If not, it should be “de-tuned” a
I am especially fond of the Gamo series airguns and
I further firmly believe that for the money they are
some of the best guns to buy for the dollar spent.
Best bang for the buck. The next choice is the
B-20/26, and the B21/30. The real value though is
that you can TurboTune them and wind up with a gun
that will shoot as well as some $500-$600 guns, for
a third of the cost. They don't all turn out to be
monsters, but most turn out real well.
A little more additional
a little info regarding advertised velocities. I get
e-mails about velocities such as….
Bob… I bought a Gamo xx pellet gun and they claim
that the velocity is 1000 fps and it is only
shooting at 870-890 fps using Gamo Hunter .177
pellets (more or less depending on the pellet and
pellet weight). What is wrong with my gun???
My response would be:
If you look closely, many of the advertised
velocities claim “Up to 1000 fps” or what ever.
There is probably nothing wrong with your gun and
that is pretty much a normal velocity for that gun
using that pellet and pellet weight.
It is important to understand that when they do
their promotional advertising and testing, they use
very light pellets usually weighing 6 gr or less,
sometimes as little as 5 gr. Using pellets that
light will usually provide the advertised/claimed
velocities. However, when using a “standard” weight
pellet of say 7.9 to 8.3 or maybe even heavier, the
velocity drops dramatically. That is to be expected.
Now for just a bit of info regarding the different
pellets and their use:
I suggest that you do not use light pellets in your
gun. Shooting light pellets can be very hard on you
gun internally, hard on the spring and seal and
usually cause the gun to shoot very harshly. It can
be almost like dry firing your springer when really
light pellets like PBA’s are used.
By the same token, do not use heavy pellets in your
gun. Although heavy (or light weight pellets) such
as the Kodiaks will not damage Co2, PCP, and Pumper
type airguns, they can and will sometimes cause
severe damage to the main spring in Springer Guns.
They can cause damage and detonation. This can and
will cause spring fatigue and spring destruction
beginning with just a few shots and when
disassembled, the damage caused by heavy pellets and
detonation is easily detected and identifiable. The
spring failure is not the fault of the spring but
spring abuse. Use heavy pellets at your own risk and
For the longevity of your spring gun:
My suggestions are for .177 caliber gun that the
minimum pellet weight should be 6.9 and the maximum
pellet weight should be 9 grains.
My suggestions are for .22 caliber gun that the
minimum pellet weight should be about 13.5 and the
maximum pellet weight should be about 15 grains.
above on Charlie for contact